Quick time shifter bushing1/23/2024 ![]() Cant remember the price of the OEM Toyota bushing, but the Marlin was just under $8 so it's certainly not expensive. PaymentShippingReturnsPaymentShippingReturns We accept payment right away when you purchase the item, as this allows us to ship your item to you as quickly as. Again, not something I think you gain much out of function wise by going high performance. I also compared the Marlin shift bushing (the little white one) to the OEM Toyota, and dimensionally they're identical (the Marlin is just a hair taller, but not in a way that affects anything at all), but the Toyota felt like maybe a nylon part while the Marlin is claimed (feels that way to me too) to be delrin, which is far more resistant to wear over time. Not sure if that feature is REALLY needed, but I figure the Toyota engineers implemented it for a reason. The Marlin seat though does not have that "skirt" on the bottom to keep excess oil from splashing up around the shift ball. Only thing an upgraded one would get you is likely not the occasional change out. Change out the OEM every few years and you're golden. TBH though, I don't think this is a part that requires a high performance upgrade. Getting the bushings back on the ball joints was definitely tougher than with the stock ones, and I am wondering. RETAINER SUB-ASSEMBLY, CONTROL SHIFT LEVER (FOR FLOOR SHIFT).Unfortunately all are way too small for an H55F. I just finished installing my solid shifter cable bushings, and have noticed that the shifter no longer springs back to center laterally on its own, when going from 1/2 or 5/6 to neutral. If they are not, you can try to tighten them up or you may need a new shifter tower. Once everything is all cleaned up on your shifter tower, check that the (2) rivets on either side of the shifter tower are solid. This is my shifter mechanism with bushing showing the cleaned individual parts. But if you decide to clean it from the top, it is important to leave the shifter seated in the shift tower as you clean everything up to help prevent all that crud from entering your tranny. In basket cases such as this, it is almost certainly better to remove and clean the entire shifter tower. Both these pics are from this thread: Shifter Problem / New Shifter Seat. Note the broken locking mechanism in the second pic. When the shifter mechanism gets this dirty, disassembly can be difficult. We dedicate the time and energy to inspect every single item before shipment to customers, though mistakes are inevitable we offer quick response customer. Also below is what my cleaned shifter mechanism parts looks like now as I await my rebuilt R150F tranny. It also garnered many awards, such as the National Sleep Foundations 2019 SleepTech® Award, Fast Companys 2021 World-Changing Ideas, and Health Magazines 2020 Sleep Award. I sure hope the OP's is not in this condition. If you offroad a lot, the amount of crud and mud which can accumulate on the shifter mechanism is frightening (see example below). On the passenger side it tucks under the trim by the glove box and has a clip there. Continue around to the back of the trim it slides back and out to release. Use your trim tool to start to pry it out on the driver’s side. If I had changed the seat and bushing before the seat disintegrated, the R150F bearings may have lasted longer. Start by removing the trim around the climate control module and shifter base. ![]() And the bushing on the end of the stick was cracked. After 23 years, the only piece in the shifter seat area of my tranny that I could recognizable was the gasket. If you even think that debris fell in the tranny, you should flush the tranny multiple times IMO. It seems like a clean separation, and it looks like it was originally. Rather than leave it in the state it was in, I pulled it apart (see attached photo). And plan on changing the gear oil in the tranny after changing out the seat and bushing. After installation of engine side trans bracket aluminum bushings this weekend, I found that the cheap plastic cable bushing was tweaked a bit. The sooner you remove the old shifter seat or what little is left of it, the better IMO. And I began to hear bearing noise from the R150F within months of changing the seat and bushing out. The bearings were shot after just 136K total miles which is WAY short for the R150F tranny powered by the stock V6. But debris from the completely disintegrated seat had apparently fallen into the gearbox over time which shortened bearing life considerably. And I changed the Amsoil gear oil just to be on the safe side. I thought I was able to suck most of the debris out when I did mine. This will help prevent contamination from entering your gear box. And leave the shifter mechanism seated while you clean everything up. But the important part of my post is to use a Shop Vac to help prevent debris from a disintegrating seat or anything else from falling into the tranny. It is best to keep the nomenclature correct.
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